![]() Kobe has gone on to fresh challenges and so has Alisdair in not the most obvious of spots. Just before the place’s closure in 2016, influential website Opinionated About Dining named it the third best restaurant in Europe after L'Arpège in Paris and the Basque Country’s Azurmendi. That region on the Belgian-French border was home to Michelin-starred In de Wulf, where Alisdair was right hand man to the legendary Kobe Desramualts. The wellspring of this creativity? A culinary ley line from Heuvelland to Norland. Still that road kill lookalike at Stockport’s Where The Light Gets In proved utterly delicious and a similar ‘forage and ferment, cure and preserve’ ethos rules here. ![]() Having days before nearly choked on a pin bone from a Port of Lancaster kipper, it’s not the easiest of encounters. They resemble a seahorse or a fossil shape in ammonite. Ditto eleven week dry-aged pork chops from the Hungarian Mangalitza, a rare breed of pig that’s as wooly as a sheep (there are plenty of those on the moors outside).īack to those bones in front of me, second course in a £35 tasting menu that starts weird and becomes ever more wonderful. I can’t imagine the fish’s real bones, deep-fried, have ever been served before in the Moorcock, an old school Pennine pub at Norland above Sowerby Bridge. A Yorkshireman’s penchant for pickles stops at onions herring bone to him is tweed or twill. ![]() All those Dutch and Flemish trenchermen salivating at the prospect of fatty raw fish soused in vinegar or brine. ![]()
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